December 1st is World Aids Day – sadly for many this means little more than putting on a red ribbon for a day and then opening the first door on the advent calendar and thinking about Christmas. Having spent the last 2 months volunteering alongside HIV projects we wanted to make this day special – it was, but not how we could have predicted.
Gilbert has spent the last few days living near “the roadblock” (a police checkpoint north of the river) studying with Theatre for Change’ an international programme that raises awareness of social and development issues through theatre. (Gilbert is getting ready to start a group at Kwatukumbuchire); they finished with street theatre about HIV prevention in the market square in Liwonde. It was a wonderful success and many people took the message of the day to heart.
As we are reaching the end of our time in Liwonde a few of us went to the Hippo View Lodge (big, posh expensive, nice food!!) across the river for a farewell meal. Aimee, Jade (an Australian volunteer with Youth Impact) Mica (a national volunteer with Youth Impact) and myself then went to ‘Uncle Joe’s Nightclub’ a Chibuku bar (Chibuku is a Malawian maize beer) as it was our penultimate night in Liwonde and we had been talking about trying some ever since we arrived. In the bar while we were playing pool a young woman came to speak to us. This is very common as Malawians are (generally) a friendly people and ‘azungu’ (white people) are not that common in Liwonde and people are interested in us. We chatted a bit, found out her name was Ellen and a few other things then left to go to a nearby nightclub called Idols. We were curious about her as it was difficult to estimate her age, she was alone in the bar and had very visible injuries to her forehead and the left side of her face.
While we were in Idols Ellen came to us again and started dancing with our group. We accepted that she was comfortable enough with us that we could ask her some questions (interviewing people had been one of our tasks while on placement). We found out that she is only 12 years old. We asked if she knew her HIV status and were told she didn’t; she had had unprotected sex with men but didn’t know their HIV status. As we spoke with her more we came to the conclusion she was in town trying to earn money – we believed through sex work. We had a event planned for the next day (Dec2nd) which would include HTC (HIV Testing and Counselling). We convinced her to come with us so she could be tested and learn her status. We said that all of us would get tested as she was nervous about doing this alone and told her we would come and meet her where she was staying (Uncle Joe’s) the next morning, take her to Kwatukumbuchire (where we were holding the event) and provide her with breakfast. She left saying that she was going to sleep and would see us in the morning.
The next morning Aimee, Jade and myself along with Gilbert went to meet her. We asked at Uncle Joe’s (we had a picture on a camera from the night before) and was told she had left. We asked several people in the area, one told us he had seen her “past the road block” (a police checkpoint north of the Shire River, about 3 km away) that morning.
The frustration and anger I’ve been feeling about this whole event has been building ever since. We had been convincing ourselves that we were making a difference by our work with youth groups – for the young people who turn up there are those who don’t. Who don’t belong to the churches and school groups – lacking the network of people to support them who are the most at risk of abuse and exploitation. I started asking our partner agencies why no one is going into the bars and on to the street corners to reach these kids – the ones in most need.
Today, we had our evernt at Kwatukumbuchire, showcased all our activites to the village and officially launched the Adult Education Inititive to the village. It was a huge success, well received and enjoyed by all and a wonderful way to wrap up our time here in Liwonde. We have the feeling of work half done –but we know that the seeds here at Kwatukumbuchire is going to grow – with Gilbert and all the wonderful volunteers we have worked with. There is some irony that the AEI is loosing 2 of its teachers (Barbara and myself) the day after it hopes to double or triple it’s numbers! But Mayamico, Angella and Malisani will do a fantastic job. When we first arrived we were all surprised that the project wasn’t more established; that we were in “at the beinging” as it were. I remember I said (quoting someone I can’t remember now)
“We are not expected to finish the work – but that doesn’t mean we are free to refrain from it in any way.”
We have given what we can, and hope to continue when we return to the UK. Tomorrow (Saturday) we are returning to Lilongwe to attend a convention for International Volunteers on Monday, to debrief from our programme and return to the UK next weekend. It is sad leaving Liwonde, I hope for the best for Gilbert, all the staff and members of Kwatukumbuchire, everyone we have in our work – and especially for Ellen.
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